Under the Tuscan son

WINE:Piero Antinori is living proof that Italy does dynasties quite unlike anywhere else in the world - he is the 25th generation of the renowned wine-producing family

IT IS OFTEN said that the most dangerous time in a company's progress is when the second generation takes over. Can the succeeding son or daughter show the same drive and entrepreneurial skills? Does it all become easy when you reach the 25th generation, as in the case of Piero Antinori, Italy's leading wine producer?

Antinori joined the family business when he was 20, and at the age of 28, his father gave him full responsibility for the entire company. "It was both challenging and stimulating," says Antinori. "I had ideas and ambitions. My father never objected and never told me that I was going in the wrong direction. I am now trying to do the same with this generation."

The 1960s were not easy times for Italian wine. "We were condemned to find new solutions. When I took over, our industry in Italy and in Tuscany was in turmoil. For centuries there had been a tradition of mezzadria, a sort of share-cropping, whereby the landowner and the families who looked after the land shared the produce 50-50. Every Tuscan family cultivated a little of everything, some wheat, grapes, olives, cattle and chickens - a kind of subsistence farming."

In the 1960s, this system was abolished. The landowners began to plant new larger vineyards. But poor vines were planted, and many tried to produce too much wine.

"Quality started to go down very rapidly," says Antinori, "followed by the price, and then our reputation. It was a disaster."

Eager to change, Antinori began to travel the wine world on a regular basis, visiting Bordeaux and Burgundy, and other regions too. He was fortunate to come across two legendary figures in the wine industry.

The first was consultant and university professor Émile Peynaud. "He was a great man; he encouraged and helped me a lot. He had both the theory and the practice; he was a wine-lover and taster. He came to Tuscany and was convinced we could produce great wine."

The other great inspiration he met in the same period was Robert Mondavi in California. "He had a great approach to winemaking, and was always trying to discover new things. After a week with Robert, you went home full of ideas and enthusiasm."

Fired up, Antinori began to change things. "We started to use better grapes to make better wine and to age it differently. We changed completely our philosophy, and saw very good results. It was very controversial. There were many traditionalists who thought the old ways were the best, but the immediate success of Tignanello [the first so-called 'Super-Tuscan' wine, which took the wine world by storm] encouraged other producers to follow the same approach. This was the beginning of a very exciting period."

Following on the success of Tignanello, many other producers followed suit. Frustrated by the arcane laws governing the production of Chianti, they planted Cabernet Sauvignon and other international varieties, and began ageing their wines on small French barriques, rather than the traditional Italian boti. Unable to label their wine Chianti, they simply used the lowly title Vino do Tavola. The next two decades saw a steady stream of these "Super Tuscans".

Antinori feels it may now be time for a change. "The Super-Tuscan category has been very beneficial for Tuscany, but I think now it is losing its shine. It's a name, but there are no rules - sometimes it's not super, and maybe it is not even Tuscan. We now have the right clones of Sangiovese, older vineyards, and we know which ones produce the best wine. The past 30 years have been experimental, now we have to devote ourselves to finding more identity.

"The future in Tuscany will be the historical appellations - Chianti, Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, as well as some of the emerging appellations such as Bolghieri and Morellino. Sangiovese is not like Cabernet Sauvignon - it does not give great results everywhere. I think it is more like Pinot Noir, and needs very specific conditions in order to produce good wines. Tuscany is one of the only areas that can produce great Sangiovese."

The company has expanded in a limited fashion, buying the Piedmont producer Prunotto, as well as planting vines in Apulia in the south. "Apulia is a new frontier. We call it the California of Italy; the climate is very good, the soils are very good, it is a matter of planting the right varieties."

The main attraction for Antinori was the grape varieties. "Aglianico has a great future, I like it very much; I think that after Nebbiolo in Piedmont, and Sangiovese in Tuscany, it will be the third most important red grape variety in Italy. But you also have Primitivo, Negroamaro, Nero du Troya, Fiano di Puglia and Bombino. We are fascinated by the potential."

There are also wines made in California, Washington state, Chile and Hungary. "However," says Antinori, "we remain Tuscan to the core." The family own a bewildering number of estates in and around Tuscany, and these form the core of their extensive range of wines.

Antinori is optimistic about the future. The 26th generation is now in place; three daughters Albeira, Allegra and Allesia are all involved in the business. "The image of Italy, thanks to fashion and design, has never been higher. When Ferrari wins a grand prix somewhere in the world, we also sell more wine."

THE ANTINORI SELECTION

A classic Italian white with crisp acidity, light pear-drop fruits and a dry finish. Inoffensive quaffer to drink solo or with seafood. Stockists: Centra; Dunnes; Superquinn; Tesco; Super Valu; Achesons, Drimnagh; Eurospar; Molloys; Londis.

A step up from the Orvieto above, with easy, rounded, quite textured yellow fruits on the palate and an easy finish. Again, a great all-purpose wine. Stockists: Centra; Superquinn; Super Valu; Coopers Off Licence, Tipperary; Kellys, Clontarf; Molloys; O'Briens Wine Off-licences.

Lovely dark cherry fruits on the nose and palate, with surprising concentration for a wine at this price. A great all-purpose food red, to accompany meat or pasta dishes. Stockists: Widely available including Centra; Daybreak Stores; Dunnes; Superquinn; Tesco; Super Valu; Cheers; Eurospar; Molloys; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Nolan's, Clontarf.

Lovely fresh vibrant morello cherry nose and palate with no real tannins and an easy finish. Try it with rich pasta dishes. Stockists: Centra; Superquinn; Super Valu; McHugh's, Malahide Road & Killbarrack Road; Eurospar; Kelly's, Clontarf; Molloys; Next Door; O'Briens Wine Off-licences.

Villa Antinori 2004 IGT di Toscana 13.5% €17.99

Maturing slightly animal nose with some cherries too; soft, fully mature, but still pleasant with an earthiness and a smooth, long finish. Ready to go. Stockists: Centra; Londis; Superquinn; Super Valu; Eurospar; Firhouse Inn; McHugh's Malahide Road and Kilbarrack Road; Molloys; Next Door; Redmond's, Ranelagh.

This is an impressive wine at an impressive price; never big, but concentrated dark cherry fruits, with plenty of well-integrated new oak and substantial tannins. Decant before drinking. Stockists: Corkscrew, Chatham St; Gourmet Shop, Rathgar; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; O'Briens; Molloys; Superquinn.