A day at the races, Riviera style:I'M NOT sure if the Côte d'Azur Hippodrome counts as a hidden gem. It's very large, but I'm sure many folk don't know it's there. If you had arrived in Nice, capital of the French Riviera, by aircraft many decades ago, it would have been like landing in the middle of the 3.25 at Leopardstown.
When work began to build what is now the international airport of Nice Côte d’Azur, a racecourse was created at Cagnes-sur-Mer, set back a short distance from the sea, a few kilometres to the west of the airport.
There can’t be many courses where you can watch your steed cross the line against the backdrop of palm trees and an azure Mediterranean, with, during the winter months, the snow-capped peaks of the Alps behind you.
The 64-hectare course is home to three disciplines: the flat, jumps and what is called the trot, where jockeys drive small traps, a sort of French version of the chariot race in Ben-Hur. The winter season for the trot has just ended; the magical summer season takes place on balmy July and August evenings when it is far too hot to race (or indeed do anything else) during the day.
The Hippodrome, has a capacity of 12,000, is easily accessible by public transport and has parking for 2,000 cars, has been promoting itself as a family day out. You can, for example, dine in one of three panoramic restaurants.
If you arrive late afternoon, as I did after lunching at St Paul de Vence, not only do you get in free, because the kiosk attendants have gone home, but you save money on bets. We were in time for just the final two races – one place, and I think the other’s still running, as you ask.
www.hippodrome- cotedazur.com
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