Just 40km from Pisa is a corner of Italy with sandy beaches and snow covered peaks. Lorraine Callaghanloves it – and she's lived there for six years
MASSA-CARRARA in northern Tuscany – between the Apuane Alps and the sea – offers endless possibilities for exploration and relaxation.
There are miles of sandy beaches and exquisite walks in the mountains amid picturesque villages, where one can sample local food and have real cultural encounters. During the summer months, the opportunities to see local and international artists perform are immense, with outdoor concerts ranging from operatic and orchestral evenings to jazz and rock.
Although I have lived in Massa for over six years, locals still ask me how I find it and, before I can respond, launch into an animated dialogue from which I am excluded. “But of course you are happy here. We have these beautiful mountains and the sea, and a type of micro-climate,” one enthuses. “It’s like California, and as for the food . . .” another chimes. The wonder of Italian cuisine renders them silent, for a second. “What more could anyone ask for?” they chant, gesticulating madly. It’s a rhetorical question and, outnumbered, I smile, which seems to give them the encouragement to go off again.
Massa (population 66,000) is 40km north of Pisa at the foot of the majestic Apuane Alps. Their snow-covered peaks are visible from almost every corner of the town, while mountain villages perched on emerald hills weave down into the valley.
AT MARINA DI MASSA, 4km from Massa, there are sandy beaches and the warm Tyrrhenian Sea, which attracts many tourists in the summer months. You can walk for miles along the beach or stroll the boulevard that links Marina with its affluent neighbour, Forte di Marmi, where the rich and famous have holiday homes.
Marina di Massa has many chic hotels, restaurants and lively bars and throughout the summer there is a nocturnal market displaying local crafts. Gelaterias (ice cream parlours) abound. There are daily boat trips from Marina to the Cinque Terre (five lands) which consist of five stunning villages that must be seen.
The boat stops in Portevenere – another village that will surprise and delight you. A visit to the large tourist office close to the pier will ensure you don’t miss the almost nightly concerts between Marina and Massa.
MASSA IS NOTHING like the outdoor museum that constitutes the historical centre of Florence. However, I soon discovered that Massa’s historical centre has many delights, including the principal Piazza Aranci (Orange Square) lined with orange trees and dominated by the imposing baroque mansion Palazzo Ducale (1705).
It was formerly one of the residences of the Malaspina family, rulers of the province. It is now the seat of the provincial government and the splendid courtyard is used for concerts.
Piazza Mercurio (1574) is the oldest square in Massa and was originally the commercial centre of the town. From this enchanting square you can climb up past the 16th-century church (Chiesa Del Carmine) to the imposing castle which was started in the 8th century as a medieval fortress and later expanded by the Malaspinas, who added a Renaissance palace.
It also affords fantastic views of Massa and the coast. The church and convent Maria Delle Grazie (1691) is perched, predictably, on another hill.
The town’s cathedral of St Peter and St Francis dates from 1389, but the striking white marble façade was built in 1936. The vaults contain the remains and tombs of the noble Cybo-Malaspina family.
You can admire its façade while sipping a glass of vinoin the early evening, when the locals congregate for their daily aperitivo. Beyond the cathedral, stroll down past the portals and one of the city's original doors to Borgo Del Ponte – another gem.
Narrow streets are lined with medieval houses, jumbled together. An occasional head peers from behind half-closed shutters.
Clothes and shoes swing from the windows as an elderly woman washes her face and drinks from the marble fountain.
A visit to Massa would not be complete without taking the winding road past the castle to San Carlos to admire the views.
Vermilion sunsets may tempt you to linger but I suggest you follow the road to Pariana, a wonderful village where you can enjoy a drink and delicious snacks prepared by Silvio, the friendliest proprietor I have ever encountered. The views from his terrace are breathtaking.
If you can find the strength to leave Pariana, there are many other villages to explore, including Altagnana and Antona. During the summer Antona hosts a chestnut festival with music and dancing on the main piazza. It would be unkind not to warn readers that these drives are not suitable for nervous drivers or those suffering from vertigo, but if you can withstand the mass misanthropy that Italians display behind the wheel, driving is the best way to reach the more remote places.
When I express concern about the high-risk driving techniques, people just say “Italia e così” (Italy is like that) with an expression of resignation and the usual splaying of hands and laughter.
Where to stay and where to eat
Where to stay
C'era una volta, Via Cervara 73, Massa, ceraunavoltabb.it, 0039-0585-810415. Luxury BB in 12th century building restored with good taste.
Hotel San Carlos, Via Nicola Zonder 3, Massa, 0039-0585-43193 or booking.com. Beside a spa, this hotel offers stupendous views and the chance to explore the Apuane Alps and mountain villages.
Hotel Milano Piazza Betti 24, Marina Di Massa, hoteltirrenomarinadimassa.com, 0039-0585-240076. Situated in the main square, this liberty-style hotel is the ideal solution for those seeking proximity to the sea.
Where to eat
Arco di Cybo Piazza Portone, Massa, larcodicybo.it, 00-39-0585-41010. Giovanni (a sommelier) and Alesandra are charming hosts. A gourmet experience in wonderful surroundings.
Pantagruele, Piazza Liberazione, Massa, 0039-0585-499259. Run by chef Sergio and his sister, here you can enjoy a marvellous meal (pizzas, pasta, fish or steak) in great surroundings.
Antica Osteria Chichibio, Via Cairoli, Massa, 0039-0585-41867. Managed by two elderly gentlemen who are attentive without being invasive. The menu is extensive and the food excellent. In summer you can dine in the little courtyard which is more romantic.
Ristorante Farfarello, Via Colombo 30, Marina di Massa, 0039-0585-869090. Situated in the heart of Marina di Massa this busy restaurant has great seafood.
La Peniche, restaurant and pizzeria, Via Lungobrugiano, Marina di Massa, 0039-0585-240117. A romantic option with an extensive menu make this an appealing option.
The best bar in town for a cappuccino or an aperitif is Caffe' Greco, Viale Eugenio Chiesa 37, Massa, 0039-0585-026209.
Getting there
Ryanair (ryanair.com) flies daily from Dublin to Pisa.
History
Massa is the administrative capital of the province of Massa-Carrara which includes Massa, Carrara and Lunigiana.
Marble has been extracted from these parts since Roman times and it was in Carrara's quarries that Michelangelo chose the marble for his masterpiece
La Pietà. A small plaque outside his lodgings in Via Finelli, Carrara, commemorates his visit.
Carrara has a medieval cathedral and beautiful piazzas. The famous sculptor Pietro Tacco, student of Giambologna, was born in Piazza Alberica in Palazzo delle Logge. The town has a melancholy charm and is home to many artists and sculptors who seem straight out of
La Bohème. On the first Saturday of every month you can meet these colourful characters who exhibit outside the cathedral.