TRAVEL WALK:John O'Dwyer gets access to one of the county's secret gems
ACCESS PROBLEMS rarely occur in the hills but happen instead where farmland is traversed to reach the high country. The north side of the Comeragh Mountains is an example, with no admittance to Crotty’s Lough and a pattern of intensive agriculture making other entry problematic. This is unfortunate, for one of Waterford’s secret gems is located here.
Coum Iarthar – known locally as “the Boolas” – is a sublime corrie, but it is seldom visited because access has latterly been from the distant Nire Valley car park. Recession is, however, commonly a father to ingenuity. Greater emphasis has recently been placed on making the Irish countryside reachable for visitors, with one such initiative greatly improving access to the Boola Lakes and Comeragh plateau above.
To explore this area, start from the newly developed Curraheen trailhead, located in an old farmyard built in a vernacular style with outbuildings to the front of the dwelling. Follow walking arrows along a rustic lane before turning right over a stile. With the slumbering humpback giant of the Knockanaffrin ridge now filling the horizon, continue through small fields until you reach open mountainside.
Here, a spur walk goes (right) for Coumduala Lough but you continue ahead, with Crotty’s Rocks – known locally as “the ass’s ears” – protruding above the skyline as if a monstrous donkey was reclining in the next valley.
Now the route saunters across several streams to reach the corner of Graigavalia Wood. Keeping the trees on your left, pass a large rock and continue until you come to the youthful Douglas River. Here, a line of white poles marks an ancient route across the Comeraghs that is known locally as “Bóithrín na Sochraide” (the funeral road), since it was once used to carry coffins down from the Nire Valley.
Your objective, however, lies uphill. Keeping the Douglas on your left, ascend to the jaws of Coum Iarthar. Then cross the stream and climb the steep spur to the left of it. Soon, you will be above it all and doubtless fascinated by the complicated rocky architecture on the other side of this extravagantly glaciated corrie. Continue circuiting Coum Iarthar, with steep gullies diving (right) towards an evocative line of paternoster lakes carpeting the abyss below.
Eventually you will find yourself directly above an improbably large blade of rock that bears a distinct resemblance to Scotland’s famous Inaccessible Pinnacle in the Cuillin Hills of Skye. About 100m (330ft) long and 15m (50ft) high, it is the only non-coastal Irish top I know of that requires rock-climbing of a high standard to ascend, even by its easiest route.
Continue circuiting Coum Iarthar until the track swings left and encounters a wire fence at right angles to your route. Descend alongside the fence to reach a steep bouldery rib. Adrenaline junkies will have fun getting dirt under their fingernails by scrambling down this, but confirmed walkers will be relieved to bypass on the left and descend steeply into the Comeragh Gap. Here, take a right towards the corner of Graigavalia Wood, where you will pick up your original ascent route which is then followed to the trailhead.
Coum Iarthar
Map:OSi Discovery Series sheet 75.
Start point:From Clonmel, follow the R678 for Rathgormuck to Clondonnell crossroads which bears a sign for the Boolas and the Gap. Take a right here and continue for 3km (2 miles), going straight at two intersections to reach Curraheen farmyard.
Time:Allow four hours to complete the route.
Suitability:Moderately challenging outing for well-equipped walkers with reasonable fitness.