China syndrome

Authentic Szechuan food is available in Dublin – just be sure to ask for the 'other' menu, writes EOIN HIGGINS

FINDING AUTHENTIC CHINESE food in Ireland is a no easy task – often it’s a case of stalking the ex-pats and then figuring out what to ask for. In many Chinese restaurants, if you look European, you are given the kind of menu choices that give Chinese food a bad name: arrowroot-thickened gloopy dishes that no more resemble real Chinese food than fish and chips represent rustic Italian fare.

There is consensus in China that the best of the country’s cuisine emanates from the Szechuan province, an opinion confirmed for me after a recent trip to its capital, Chengdu. Szechuan chefs are notable for their liberal use of the Szechuan peppercorn, garlic and hot chillies. You can have some incredible culinary experiences there, from tucking into platefuls of deep-fried duck tongues to buying whole quail on a stick from street vendors.

The most authentic representation I found back home was the China Sichuan, which closed its doors earlier this month (not the first time this location has been the kiss of death for a restaurant). But that menu, although close to authentic, was still tailored towards a European palate, and it was relatively expensive.

ML, on Dublin’s Cathedral Street, promises “authentic Szechuan food” and if you look through the window you are likely to find a room full of animated Chinese people tucking into a wild array of unusual dishes.

Inside, the restaurant buzzes with conversation, frenetic staff, and an audible tap-tap-tap of chopsticks. The interior is hardly luxurious, still, it’s clean and comfortable. The usual waving gold cats and ubiquitous Chinese knick-knacks abound. Different from any other Chinese restaurants, however, is what you see on the tables. A quick scan of the room during our visit revealed razor clams, duck on the bone with spring onions and chilli, mala sauce hotpots, whole fish, and platefuls of lucid green vegetables accented with fiery red chillies.

I was first given the European menu, and all the usual suspects were there, so I asked the waiter if there was another menu. There was, filled with Chinese characters that I had no chance of deciphering, so I told the waiter I was seeking out authentic Szechuan food, wasn’t afraid of heat, and that fish on the bone was not a problem. He looked unsure, did some quick weighing up with his pen, and asked what I would like. He made some excellent suggestions, asking how I would like things cooked, how hot I wanted it, explaining how it would be presented, and again asked if I was really willing to try the “real” food. I think the Irish have a poor reputation among the Chinese regarding our sense of culinary adventure.

First up, braised whole seabass in mala sauce (€11.80), served in a gargantuan bowl, enough for two, possibly three people, if rice was ordered. The Chengdu hotpot is the hottest thing I have ever eaten, inducing as it does instant hiccupping, a humming tongue, an almost completely numb mouth, and profuse sweating – good times. The ML seabass hotpot was nowhere near the Chengdu equivalent, as it did not contain any Szechuan peppercorns, but I was certainly a little hot under the collar after a few mouthfuls. Generous handfuls of roasted whole red chillies will do that.

Next up, razor clams, served with glass noodles and fish sauce (€15.80). They were sweet, meaty and eye-wideningly fresh. The sauce had a hint too much soy in it, but was balanced out by plenty of spring onion. A very generous portion, too. Prawns, deep-fried in egg yolk (€9.80), an ML speciality, were next. I recommend this split between two, as egg yolk overload is easy and quick to achieve.

We also tried a half dozen each of the pork and beef steamed dumplings (€5.80). The beef ones were very good, the pork sensational – perfect little parcels of fried pork infused with Chinese five spice, an exotic stream of star anise sitting softly above the other flavours. I could live quite happily on those forever.

We had four beers (€2.50 each) between us to quell the fire, the wine list not really being the thing to try here.

ML is one of my favourite ethnic restaurants in this country. The value is almost unbelievable, the food is authentic, and the experience as a whole is very refreshing. I wholeheartedly recommend a visit, but make sure you order off-menu, ask for a bowl and chopsticks too, dive in and experience a totally new way of eating. The bill came to €59, for two people, including four beers. Cash is king at ML, as there is no credit card facility.

ML Szechuan Chinese Restaurant, 13/14 Cathedral Street, Dublin 1, 01-8748038

FOODIE CHINS HAVE been a-wag recently regarding rumours that restaurateur Dan McGrattan plans to open a gastro-pub in Dublin 2 later this year. He is tight-lipped, but a source close to him has revealed that he is in early talks with “a high-profile chef without a gig”.

There are two likely candidates: Troy Maguire has worked with McGrattan before and has been looking for a door to hang his name over since the demise of Lock’s, and Dylan McGrath, who, although currently in talks with Louis Murray about a possible relationship with Balzac, is also between gigs, plus, McGrath has spoken before about wanting to do a “proper gastro-pub” in Ireland. Whichever candidate it is, if the project goes ahead, this will be one of the most hotly-anticipated developments for Dublin dining this year.