Classic companions for fishy dishes

WINE:The mantra used to be white with fish, red with beef, but you can mix it up a bit now, and make some exciting discoveries

RED WINE WITH meat, white wine with fish, is one of the few things that most people remember about matching food and wine. It is not a bad place to start. Most white fish and shellfish are light and delicate, but bland. They really need something to liven them up. This explains why they were traditionally offered with a slice of lemon, tartar sauce or a beurre blanc. A fresh, crisp, un-oaked white wine is usually the best option to serve with these. Sauvignon and Riesling are both excellent, as are most Italian white wines, Muscadet and many of the white wines of the Loire. The same holds for oily fish, such as sardines and mackerel – a crisp, dry white cuts right through those rich flavours.

The classic match for more full-flavoured white fish, such as black sole or turbot, served with a rich creamy or buttery sauce, is a white Burgundy or other oaked Chardonnay.

In my days working as a sales rep, I frequently called in to Ballymaloe House in Shanagarry. The late Ivan Allen looked after the wine list, and occasionally invited me to join him for lunch. It was always a pleasure. One of my fondest food memories is of a perfectly grilled fillet of brill served with a herb butter, new potatoes and a green salad. It was simple food at its very best, and heavenly with a glass of good Mâcon Villages. But do not limit yourself to Burgundy. A new world Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner from Austria (brilliant with prawns and scallops) or a Viognier will do just as well.

Nowadays, chefs are far more adventurous in their choice of sauces and accompaniments. This makes life a little more complicated for the wine lover. A crisp Chablis might go perfectly with plainly cooked prawns, but would get lost in a Thai green curry. Instead of matching a wine with the fish, you need to look at how it is being served. I find European white wines tend to go better with less assertive sauces based on lemons, butter or cream. New world whites, with their more intense ripe fruits and lively acidity, tend to make a better choice with punchier Asian dishes.

These days we should certainly not rule out red wines or rosé. I am not a huge fan of rosé wines, but they go really well with many medium- to full-flavoured fish recipes. Richer fish such as salmon, tuna and cod are often great with a light red, such as a new world Pinot Noir, Merlot, Valpolicella or a Loire red.

Lastly, do not forget sparkling wines. They can make one of the best matches of all with fish.

Wines of the week

Devil's Corner Riesling 2009, Tamar Ridge, Tasmania, Australia, 12%, €16Fresh, crisp and mouth-watering, the way Riesling should be. Pristine green apples and lime with lovely light fruit and a dry finish. Perfect with crab, and lighter fish dishes. You could try it with Domini Kemp's trout recipe on page 26. Stockists: O'Donovan's, Cork; Packies Food Wine, Kenmare; O'Keeffe's, Ennis; Next Door, Corcoran's, New Ross; Carry Home Kellers, Nenagh; Martin's, Fairview

Laurenz and Anna Grüner Veltliner 2009, Kamptal, Austria, 12%, €17.50This Grüner Veltliner, with its racy acidity and mouth-filling greengage fruits, would be a smart choice for a wide variety of fish dishes. I suspect it would be particularly good with lightly spiced recipes, such as Domini Kemp's hake with yoghurt and cumin. Stockists: Donnybrook Fair; Greenacres, Wexford; Lynch's, Tullamore

Saint Véran "en Crêches" 2009, Domaine Jacques and Nathalie Saumaize, 13%, €18.99A lovely, richly-textured unoaked Chardonnay with a nice citrus tang that would be ideal with salmon, black sole or brill. It would also partner nicely with chicken. Stockists: 64 Wine, Glasthule; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Cabot Co, Westport, cabotandco.com; The Wine Room, Pery Square, Limerick

Boat Shed Nebbiolo Rosé 2010, Adelaide Hills, Australia, 14%, €14.99Nebbiolo is more usually associated with tannic red wines in Piemonte, rather than rosés in Oz. However, it works very well here, in a nicely crafted wine with elegant strawberry fruits and a well-rounded finish. This might be the one to try with the trout recipe, as before. Stockist: O'Briens

TWO UNDER €12

Heron's Nest Chardonnay 2009, Western Cape, South Africa, 13%, €6.99(currently on promotion) This is a broad, rich, lightly buttery wine with plenty of rounded sweet fruits and a creamy texture. I suspect it would go very well with a prawn Thai green curry, as well as other creamy Asian dishes. Stockist: Dunnes Stores

Labouré-Roi Beaujolais 2009, 12.5%, €7.99I featured the Labouré-Roi Fleurie a few weeks back, but for those on a budget, the 2009 Beaujolais is also well worth trying out. With its light, juicy strawberry fruits, it would go very nicely, served lightly chilled with more substantial fish dishes, as well as making a great summer party wine. Stockists:O'Donovan's, Cork: Deveney's, Dundrum; The Mill, Maynooth; Boomer's, Clondalkin; Next Door, Clane, and many other independent off-licences

Beer of the week

Avalanche, Fyne Ales, Scotland, 4.5%, €3.99 for a 500ml bottleLight, fresh and full of crisp citrus and floral hops. A great thirst- quencher for the summer months, but also worth trying with fish.

FIVE GREAT FISH AND WINE MATCHES

Oysters and ChampagneA wonderful classic combination if you are feeling reckless, or a briny Muscadet if you are on a budget.

Scallops and Grüner VeltlinerThis Austrian speciality is a very different but brilliant match with scallops seared in a pan, with a butter and lime sauce.

Crab and RieslingOne of the great combinations, the zippy citrus acidity, sometimes accompanied by a hint of sweetness working perfectly with the crab. Alternatively try a Viognier or other fruity white from the Rhône Valley to complement the rich sweetness of most crab dishes.

Grilled Black sole and unoaked ChardonnayServe swimming in butter, with a rich unoaked Chardonnay from Australia, California or Mâcon.

Salmon and ChardonnayCold with mayonnaise or warm with Hollandaise, this is the time to show of your very best Chardonnay.